Craft & heritage
The jewellers of Thailand: precious stones and royal heritage
Thailand has long been one of the world's great crossroads for precious stones. But behind the rubies and the sapphires lies a deeper story, where the art of the jeweller meets that of the court and the patronage of the royal family. A tradition that the Kingdom maintains with remarkable care, and which we evoke here with the greatest respect.
A land of precious stones
Thailand cultivates a centuries-old expertise in the cutting of gems. The country first distinguished itself thanks to its own deposits: the rubies of the Chanthaburi region, in the east, and the blue sapphires discovered further west made its reputation.
The small town of Chanthaburi has, over the centuries, become one of the world's greatest centres for the trade and cutting of coloured stones. Its gem market, bustling every weekend, still draws buyers from all over the world.
When the local deposits ran dry, Thai traders went to seek the raw material elsewhere, as far as Africa, to bring it back and work it on site. It is this expertise in cutting and treatment, more than the soil, that made the country a capital of the ruby and the sapphire.
The Navaratna, the nine sacred gems
At the heart of traditional Thai jewellery lies the Navaratna, or "nine gems" in Sanskrit. This assemblage brings together nine precious stones, each associated with one of the nine celestial bodies of ancient astrology, inherited from India and passed on to Siam.
Brought together, these nine gems are reputed to bring balance and good fortune to the one who wears them. The motif is found in rings, pendants and parures, and constitutes one of the great classics of Thai goldsmithing.
This symbolism goes beyond mere adornment: the Navaratna is intimately tied to the royal and spiritual tradition of the country. It is found, moreover, within the most prestigious insignia of the Kingdom.
The Order of the Nine Gems
The link between jewellery and the Crown is embodied in the very ancient and highly respected Order of the Nine Gems. Instituted in 1861 by King Mongkut (Rama IV), it remains one of the highest distinctions of the Kingdom.
Conferred by the sovereign, this decoration rewards eminent services rendered to the nation and to Buddhism. Its insignia takes up, precisely, the nine precious stones of the Navaratna, in a setting of gold of great finesse.
Through this order, the precious stone is no longer merely an ornament: it becomes a symbol of honour and merit, closely associated with the person of the king and with the history of the dynasty. We evoke it here with all the respect due to the royal family.
Her Majesty Queen Sirikit and the craft trades
No account of the Thai craft trades would be complete without paying tribute to Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother, often hailed as the protector of Thai craftsmanship. As early as the 1960s, travelling the country alongside King Bhumibol Adulyadej, she devoted herself to keeping the traditional skills alive.
From this commitment was born the SUPPORT Foundation, which trains artisans in dozens of provinces. Among the disciplines taught are gold and silver goldsmithing, inlay and, above all, nielloware, one of the most precious arts of the Kingdom.
Thanks to this patronage, techniques that might have disappeared found fresh life and practitioners. It is one of the finest examples of the way in which the royal family has contributed, with constancy, to preserving the country's craft heritage.
Niello, the black gold of the South
Nielloware, called Kruang Thom in Thai, is a refined goldsmithing technique: a dark alloy is inlaid into a design engraved on gold or silver, then polished, bringing out a pattern of deep black on a gleaming background.
Introduced in the era of Ayutthaya, this art flourished in the South of the country, and particularly in Nakhon Si Thammarat, which remains its capital. Pieces of Thai niello rank among the most sought-after objects of the local luxury craft.
Caskets, ceremonial bowls, jewellery: niello adorns court objects as readily as parures. It is a patient skill, handed down from family to family, which embodies the union of precious metal and the gesture of art.
Frequently asked questions
Which precious stones come from Thailand? The country is historically renowned for its rubies, notably from the Chanthaburi region, and its sapphires. Today, it is above all a great world centre for the cutting and treatment of coloured stones.
What is the Navaratna? It is an assemblage of nine gems, each linked to a celestial body, reputed to bring good fortune. Deeply rooted in Thai tradition, it inspires both jewellery and the royal insignia of the Kingdom.
Where can you see Thai jewellery craft in Bangkok? In the great houses and galleries of the capital, as well as through the pieces of the SUPPORT Foundation. The gem market of Chanthaburi, a few hours' drive away, remains for its part the beating heart of the trade.